I had three of these "battery loses power" jobs to look at today. I enjoy electrical work. It usually can be done in a logical process vs mechanical problems which can be anything. <grin> Typically on an electrical system diagnosis you will start at the battery. You need a good and fully charged battery for tests to be relevant. It isn't good enough to just assume it is fine. You test. I like to test the battery by first disconnecting it from the questionable system so that there is no interference. Before disconnecting the battery on the 2002 Avalanche I connected a memory saver to the system which is a sort of portable auxillary battery that will keep the truck's system memories intact while I test the battery.
The battery was good but would need a full charge. I like to use low amperage and slow charging because it is the most stable and reliable but it does take a few hours.
Once the battery was fully charged and cables reconnected, I removed the memory saver. Because the truck system never lost a power source I didn't have to wait for the system to enter sleep mode, it was already there. I could immediately test both the main circuits feeding from the ground side and found current draw well within acceptable range.
I also found the alternator to be working properly.
So, the battery was good, alternator good and no excessive draw on the battery. What was the problem? When I was disconnecting the battery terminals I had noticed the ground cable was not fully tight and it would not tighten when I did try the bolt. I went ahead and disconnected for the testing but once I was reconnecting the battery I could see the ground bolt was stripped. A new bolt tightened fully and I had a good connection. So what I found bad was a ground terminal connection at the battery due to a stripped bolt.
Next up was the 2001 Crown Vic. The battery was completely drained on it and it was a new battery. I had to disconnect the battery from the car to even get it to begin charging so I knew this one had excessive draw. Once I was able to test current draw on this one, I could see why the battery was dead.
Instead of starting by isolating circuits I thought that just might be something I could see on, like a trunk light or glove box light or something. I noticed a glow inside and there was something connected to the power outlet inside the car and the connector led was lit up. It was an aftermarket seat warmer on the passenger seat. The switch of the warmer had 3 settings but all were drawing power. I disconnected the warmer and all was good.
Now the 2013 Silverado battery was up to 90% so didn't take long to reach full charge. Alternator tests good and all three of the main circuit feeds from positive post have draw within specs.
Not sure what I'll find there but at least gonna let it sit overnight. It isn't unheard of for a computer to suddenly wake up on occasion and turn a few things on that shouldn't be. Gonna do a full system scan for clues and see what it does overnight.