Ford F350 KOEO 334

 I've been running KOEO tests on this 1997 F-350 truck while waiting for the intermittent no-start to rear its ugly head once again. I'm getting nowhere on that problem until it does. Meanwhile, I'm getting 334 and 654 as current codes. Even though this truck is 1997 the self diagnostic system is EEC IV. I had a decent coverage on EEC IV testing HERE. 

The code description for 334 is "EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected".

What to know here is that there is a EGR VALVE POSITION sensor mounted to the top of the EGR valve by 3 small bolts. The sensor voltage to the engine computer is how the computer determines EGR valve position. As the EGR valve moves, it moves a small steel shaft that is part of the position sensor. The movement of that shaft varies the voltage from the sensor. 

The 334 is setting with KEY ON, ENGINE OFF. The engine runs fine at idle. If the EGR valve was not closing the idle should be rough. The sensor and valve appear to be new. My experience tells me that I likely have the wrong voltage from the sensor. A good place to check voltages is at the sensor connector. I should have KOEO a 5 volt reference, a sensor ground and a sensor signal voltage out to the computer. There are two colors of Ford EVP sensors, the white one is supposed to signal 0.5 volts at closed valve position. When I check the signal I have 0.96 volts. The computer is expecting to see 0.5, gets 0.96 and sets a 334 for higher voltage than expected. 

With the correct voltages on the wires to the sensor I loosened the sensor mounting bolts, allowing the sensor shaft to extend slightly and the sensor voltage went to 0.5. A re-test with the correct voltage and the 334 was gone. 

The fix here was to slightly grind the end of the sensor shaft. I removed just a bit at a time because you can always make it shorter, but longer isn't gonna happen. Just removed enough metal to let the shaft at rest be in the position to output 0.5 volts. 

Next up.... that 654 code. 

Thanks!

Kenny@ggauto.repair

Tech Links

Hybrids

Transmission Parts

Atkinson Cycle

Healthway

Replaced worn out throttle body as authorized.
I noticed a spark plug wire had been arcing (spark) against the fuel line. There are a lot of misfires stored in the computer memory. Most are for #3 cylinder which is the one with the spark jumping from the wire. Worn spark plugs cause the spark to go where it shouldn't and I pulled the #3 plug. I have to think that is original plug. I have never seen a spark plug with that much wear that was still running. The plug wire was broken at the plug end and came completely apart when accessing the plug. So... this needs spark plugs, spark plug wires and ignition coil as well. I've taken the pictures relevant. 

Sensor Types: Thermistor

A thermistor is a resistor that changes value according to temperature. They are often used as temperature sensors. We'll use the coolant temperature sensor from a '98 Chevy truck for an example of a thermistor type sensor. This sensor is for the temperature gauge operation. Room temperature is about 80F and we have a chart of rough resistances at various temperatures.

The resistance of the sensor falls within range.

 We should see a change if we heat it up to around 100F.

Or cool it down to around 30F.

So that is how a thermistor type sensor works! 

Thanks for reading

kenny@ggauto.repair

G&G Auto Repair

Aveo

The car has 2 codes stored. P0340 means that the engine computer is not seeing a good signal from the camshaft position sensor. At this time though there is a perfect signal coming from the camshaft position sensor so the problem is intermittent. I inspected the wiring to the sensor and it appears good. A wiring problem on one of the 3 circuits to the sensor, a connector problem, a failing sensor, failing engine computer or a wiring problem to the computer are all possibilities. Best guess and most likely fix is to replace the sensor.
Current signal.

The other code is P0016 which means the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor are out of synch. The timing belt is what keeps the 2 sensors in synchronization so I looked at the timing marks. Align the crank pulley mark with the pin on the timing cover and the camshaft gear marks should be aligned. They are out of synch 1/2 tooth and your timing belt teeth are in very bad condition. The belt will soon lose teeth and jump. This is an interference engine, which means if the belt jumps you will most likely severely damage the engine.

Timing belt replacement is supposed to be 60,000 miles. I can't really tell if that has ever been replaced but it definitely needs it now. So we have the sensor that should be replaced and the belt that needs replaced. Pretty much what they told you at Young's. There are some other things.

Your air intake hose is rotten and falling apart so the air going into the engine is not going through the air filter. Needs a new hose and clean that dirt from the throttle.

Your upper radiator hose is rotten and swollen, easy to replace while doing the other work.

Those things. Timing belt, cam sensor, air intake, radiator hose, clean throttle... if that is all it needs, about $900. I can't tell about pulleys or water pump until the lower cover and timing belt are removed but if need those as well you're going to be up to around $1100. I won't have this done before monday or tuesday, depending on any complications like that.

Also, as if that wasn't enough you should know about a couple other things as well. Your front struts are leaking fluid so need replaced and your a/c compressor is leaking refrigerant. Those are things could be done later for sure but expensive things that it needs as well so you can better get an overview.

Gathering Car Data: License Plate Ho!

There is a back and forth each time I get a phone call requesting a quote. I'm sure it is frustrating on both sides of the line.

"How much to put a belt on my car?" asks the caller, innocently enough.

All the burden now is on me. I have to find out how to best take care of this caller's problem and I'll need a lot more information. I need to know what kind of "car", year, make, model, engine, accessories, systems, etc. So to get started,

"What kind of car is this?" ask I.

I have to tell you, a LOT of people get stuck right there. They may be somewhere in the neighborhood on the year and make, less sure on the model and rarely know the trim package. Engine size is usually not exact but most know 4, 6 or 8. It can be complicated though even if you know it is  5.3. There are more than one version of 5.3 and there is Flex or Gas, etc. Sometimes we are left with the caller digging around for the title to get the 8th digit of the vin, or the full vin. Which brings me to the point of this post.
A license plate is often the easiest way to get the needed car information. Texas tag LRD2276 comes back as vin 2T1BURHEXGC489086. The vin is for a 2016 Toyota Corolla L, 4cyl 1.8 U MFI DOHC. One of the snags searching this car with no vin is that there are two 1.8 vin U engine versions, 2ZR-FAE and 2ZR-FE.  The vin method and we find this is the 2ZR-FE 1.8 engine. There is more. 6sp manual trans. Vehicle produced in Ontario Canada. 13.2 gal fuel tank. 106.3 in wheelbase. 3820 GVWR. A/C, Power Brakes, All Wheel ABS, 4dr Sedan, etc.
With a vin we can even check for recalls at nhtsa.gov. Indeed there actually is one unrepaired recall on this car.

We can also now pull up repair and estimate information that applies specifically to the car in question with no guesswork about whether it is relevant or not.

Now I can get back to the original question and address it more knowledgeably. There is no timing belt as it uses a timing chain. There is only one drive belt. Now I don't have to ask which belt. I do have to ask if there is a problem related to the belt or if the belt is being replaced as regular maintenance. If the belt snapped or fell off there are likely to be other problems that need inspected. There are two available belts, one for Japan built and one for built elsewhere. We know this was built in Canada.
Now we have an accurate estimate. Or, at least as accurate as possible prior to inspecting the car myself.

Thanks for reading!
Kenny@ggauto.repair

Car Checks

I am a firm believer that if you are considering a car purchase you should make sure that particular car is inspected for obvious problems. Researching a make or model to find they are all well made and highly rated doesn't mean the particular one you are looking at isn't completely trashed. That being said, do your research then have the car inspected.
In the shop I like to use the vin for a few things before doing the physical inspection. Now why would I use a vin (vehicle identification number) to look at general information? The vin gives you information about the particular model and engine combination you are looking at. Lets do a walk-thru:

 1FTRW07642KB34176 becomes a 2002 Ford F150 Lariat, 4.6 SuperCrew
It has one unrepaired recall (always check the manufacturer for full recall info) involving fuel tank straps corroding.

A Reliability Report is about these trucks in general. No significant problems. Moderate problems with engine, steering/suspension, brake and accessories.

You know you run searches for information online sometimes? Professional mechanics/technicians do too. Top 5 searches for this model (identifix):
1. P0171
2. Firing Order
3. High Idle
4. P0316
5. Instrument Cluster Programming

(shopkeypro)
1. Firing Order
2. Fuse/Relay/Junction Boxes
3. Fuse Box
4. Fuel Pressure
5. Fuel Pump

After gathering the more general things it's time to look at specifics with a full system scan of this particular truck. A system scan on this Ford is better run on the OTC Encore because I want a print out for the customer. Sometimes a different scan tool is better, sometimes not. The Autel MX808 also does a good job with a print out here.

After the scans and a sort of overview of anything that appears in the scans it is time for the physical inspection. I look for signs of obvious problems, inspect brakes, drivetrain, tires, leaks, belts, hoses, lighting, steering, suspension and eyeball for signs of neglected maintenance, etc. You don't want to buy a car just in time to replace the timing belt or the spark plugs due to mileage so noticing mileage vs maintenance is important.

The test drive comes next, assuming it is safe to drive. Notice the wheel alignment, the steering, the ride, the handling, the performance and the braking. Notice the a/c gets cold, the heater hot and it blows at the correct vents. I let the customer do anything else themselves, like seat belts or radio or interior lights, etc. I just try to look that the vehicle is in good condition to drive and relay the findings to the customer.

Thanks

kenny@ggauto.repair