Actron U-Scan (screenshots)

 One of my favorite things about the U-Scan is that you can run the app on iPhone, iPad, Samsung tablet or Samsung phone. Shots from all. 

Thanks for looking!

Kenny@ggauto.repair

Alldata Mobile

Alldata Mobile puts the power of the Alldata Repair information system on your tablet and combines it with a wireless OBDII dongle for basic scan and code capability. There are certainly times this will save time and steps. There would be a lot to cover here but lets just post some screen shots and let me save the typing for next time. 

Thanks!

Kenny@ggauto.repair

  

Let's Check the A/C! 2001 Tahoe

Check the settings. The fan should be at the next to lowest speed. Technically low should be the coldest air but some cars have a barely noticeable flow at the lowest setting, so I tend to use the second position. Verify the fan does run and that you do have airflow at the vent. Center vents should be coldest so when necessary I put a thermometer in a center vent. I can feel by hand this is not cold but I'll put the thermometer in so you can see as well. Set the temperature control to coldest. Select recirculate or max air. This position will take longer to cool the vehicle interior but we are measuring at the vent. Once we are doing a drive later we want to see the vent temp reach at least 50 F once the interior has cooled before it gets a stamp of approval. 

Ok, 120 F seems to verify a non-functioning A/C. 

Turning the temperature control to full heat does get warmer so the temperature blend actuator is capable of moving. 

I'm not testing the heater today so I'm not going to see just how hot it will get. This seems a good time to point out that failed blend actuators is a very common cause of A/C not getting cold. 

Time to check under the hood. We want to verify the A/C compressor belt is present because these are known to lose belts. The belt is fine. The compressor clutch can be turned by hand so the compressor isn't seized. We want to know if the compressor clutch engages when the truck is running with A/C on. It does not. Now if the wiring at the compressor was more accessible I might do an electrical check there at this time but it is not. Following the path of least resistance then we will check the system charge. 

Let's call in the heavy equipment. 

Now I can't swear the blend actuator is 100% and I can't swear we don't need some refrigerant, but I do know we have enough pressure on the system that the compressor clutch should engage and it doesn't. Let's continue. I think, because I'm not yet ready to dig around the compressor harness that we should do our tests at the compressor relay, which actually appears to be disconnected and just laying in position vs pressed into the connectors. 

Apparently someone has removed the relay and did not fully engage on re-install. Now the compressor clutch is engaged. I've reached my target of 50 F at the center vent and we're done. I'm sure that no one will have any idea how that happened. 

Thanks for reading!

Kenny@ggauto.repair

2012 Ford Edge P2196 & P2198

 

If your car fuel control system is trying to compensate for an overly lean condition but reaches the point of surrender, it will set these codes. Don't misunderstand. There are a lot of conditions that could set these codes but a vacuum leak is very often the problem. A common source of the vacuum leak is a failing purge valve. This valve is normally closed so with the wire connector unplugged and the engine running there should be no engine vacuum at the vapor tube end of the valve. If you have vacuum, the valve is stuck open or leaking. Sticking valves can be intermittent. Ford has a service bulletin indicating this as a common problem. 

Thanks for reading!

Kenny@ggauto.repair

Wireless Innova Car Scan Mobile 1000

 I use a lot of code readers and scan tools in my line of work. Different types are better for some problems than others so it never hurts to have a full arsenal and know how they work. A very inexpensive code reader can be helpful at times and I definitely can't afford to have a lot of expensive ones. The main complaint I have with the less expensive testers is not that they are geared toward the DIYer market, it is the misleading way they are marketed. If you've seen ads that tell you this tool will diagnose your car problem, save you a mechanic bill, know what you need to fix your car, etcetera, well you were lied to. It doesn't work that way. I don't mind people being able to learn more about the car control systems because an educated customer is my best customer but this sort of marketing is at best misleading and at worst, lying. 

First of all, a code reader isn't what you necessarily need to find what problem is going on with your car. It can even be misleading. Let's say you are driving along and your car suddenly starts sounding very different and you feel a bump and rattle very briefly but now there is a loud rumble. No problem. Connect your trusty new code reader and diagnose this baby like a madman! P0455! Most common "fix" is a gas cap! Ok you need a new gas cap. So when a car pulls in behind you and the driver says, "Hey, your muffler and stuff fell off a ways back!", you can say "no, I just need a gas cap, thanks."

So just what is a code reader useful for? If you have a warning light on, Check Engine or similar you'll need to see why the the computer turned the light on and that is the clue stored (or not) as a trouble code. You won't know what the code is without a way to look for it. Voila! Code Reader. Even a light on with no stored codes is your jumping off point to finding the problem. Think of your warning light as a friend saying, "Hey there is something going on with your car." The code is a bit more about why he thinks something is not right. If we keep going with the P0455 that would be "I'm not seeing the fuel tank holding a vacuum during the leak test." Good information but it isn't what the problem needs done to be repaired. True diagnostics would be tests, inspection and checks performed to determine exactly why the computer is seeing the problem. Your code reader may suggest a "fix" but that is about what is stored in the database of the reader as a common fix. It isn't about what is actually wrong, it's the equivalent of querying a lot of people and seeing what they did when they had that problem. A mechanic would say there are a lot of things could cause that problem, let's see what it needs. If you go the route of replacing thing after thing suggested, it's your money. Usually it's better to find what you really need and just do that. If your mechanic suggested lets just try a bunch of stuff, you really wouldn't like it. 

Now there are code readers and scan tools of all sorts. Very basic readers may only read generic OBDII codes, some may read OBDII, Enhanced OBDII and OEM codes. Some may only read Engine modules, some read several other modules as well. Scan tools read sensor data, from basic to extended. The most useful thing I've ever found with data monitoring is that you can see what the computer sees. You have to know how to use the information, how the system works, how to test and what you are looking at to diagnose car problems.  

That being said, today I'm gonna do a quick run through the Innova Car Scan Mobile 1000. You get a Bluetooth dongle to plug into your diagnostic connector and you download the app to your preferred device. I used an old Android tablet so it doesn't have to be latest and greatest. 

It isn't usually any trouble to connect. Turn on Bluetooth and open the app. I did notice an occasional problem going from one session to another. If that happens, force close the app, turn Bluetooth off and back on, open app again and start over. 

"Scan" will scan for problems in the modules. What modules the tool will access varies by particular car. There is a web page to help you see what sort of coverage you'll have for your vehicle. Check Coverage "Special Functions" will access live data and oil reset, as permitted. "Erase codes" should erase codes, duh. By the way, if you are using the tool to aid diagnostics, don't clear or erase anything prematurely. 

If you choose "Quick Scan" you'll be look at the Engine module."Scan All Systems" will scan other modules that are available to the tool. Quick warning: If you choose either one you'll go to a screen that has several lights going round and round and round for what seems like a really long time if you stare at it. Very hypnotic actually. All I can tell you about that is if you do not stare at the screen it takes about 2 minutes to get through and access Quick Scan, and about 4 minutes for All Systems. I did stare at the screen and I just kinda snapped to three hours later in my truck with a shopping bag and receipts for 12 of these tools. I had a lot of trouble returning them too. Just watch a quick cat video or something while the lights are circling, or don't carry your wallet. 

The Quick Scan menu, once loaded. 

All Systems menu, once loaded. I'm using a 2003 Ford Ranger as our sample. 

Very nice feature here is that I don't even still have the truck but I can access the history on the app and still pull up the reports. Staying with the Quick Scan and selecting Engine I can see there are no stored engine codes. Now when you are looking for engine codes and you find none, you want to look at monitors. If there are monitors that have been reset and there are no codes it could be because the codes have been cleared and not because there are no problems that would set a code. Nice here is that when I select Engine to read codes the app clues me in on that same information. 

The "Maintenance" menu will pull up scheduled maintenance based on the vehicle mileage. Also nice. 

Predicted Repairs is probably where things go off the deep end a bit. Now I know that if you run a fleet you will see particular failures likely to occur within certain mileages and conditions so in that context this seems like a good idea. I dunno, your call. A 24% chance this truck will need a PCV valve within 12 months or 15,000 miles. They do have common vacuum leaks... hmm. Psychic Hotline sort of thing to me I think. But maybe I'm taking it too literally, like if the weather person says 24% chance of rain I don't really expect it to rain but if it does or doesn't it's right because it was a "chance". Same here. Just take it with a grain of salt as they say. Notice there are also prices listed. I suppose that is what to expect the repair to cost? How realistic is that? Let's look at it a bit. The tool says $170.78 to replace PCV valve and hose. My estimate for that would be $82. Hmm. Replace vent control valve.. tool says, $293.98. I get actually just about the same, I'd call it $300 on the estimate. I think the Predicted Repairs section is not completely from left field but don't go buying things based on it, or expecting costs to be as suggested without research. 

Do what?? Don't even get me started on extended warranties. 

The TSB/ RECALL section is good. Lots of information in there. You do have to read a particular bulletin closely because it may not actually apply to your particular car even though it shows up there. 

Now the Vehicle History Report section is similar to the let us sell you an extended warranty section. Maybe you want one, I dunno. I'd just pass and ignore those sections. That brings us to the end of the Quick Scan menu. 

Let's look at the All Module scan. Some of the menu was covered in the Quick Scan so we'll let those stand as they are and concentrate on the Danger! Danger! Will Robinson! red ones that weren't scanned in the Engine section. 

BRAKES should be ABS system codes. Yes it is. Two codes stored. C1939 and C1145. Notice the manner of presentation. (I think that sentence flowed extremely well) The most important part is the trouble codes retrieved. That is what you would need to get started troubleshooting. Yes in the way way olden times we called it troubleshooting. I like to say I was doing diagnostics before it was even called diagnostics. It was a simpler time.. 

The codes are listed along with the brief descriptions / short definitions. The next section, even though it says there was no fix found for the combination of codes, it is pretty impressive that it looked for a fix for the combination of codes. I want to point out again what I was talking about early in this article about things being misleading. You could read that as a fix being the needed repair but the "fix" referred to is actually from a list of possible "fixes", like the other guy at the coffee shop that says well, a new thingabob fixed mine. So the tool is saying there that I don't even know what to try and tell you might cause both these codes to be stored together. Shrug. That makes the next part where it says "Possible Fixes" important because that "replace wheel speed sensor" is something that might possibly be related to the problem but may not either. Why is there a price and a "buy now" button for a part that may have nothing to do with what is needed on the truck? To sell stuff. But now when a person comes in thinking they have "diagnosed" the problem and I have to explain the reality of this... well it's just not fair to me, my job is hard enough without the aggravation. Notice the fine print under the price, "prices may vary". Of course, because we don't even know what the vehicle needs. I will say though the price is pretty much in line with the sensor cost. The full job would estimate out around $260. My own most common "fix" for the C1939 would be replacing the brake pressure switch and the switch pigtail because they would leak brake fluid and damage those parts. Start the diagnostics at the switch with inspection and testing. Don't start with buying parts. In my own experience the C1145 would be caused by a bad hub assembly. The aftermarket hub assembly comes with a new sensor matched to the hub. That would run about $450 but again, it needs to be inspected and tested first. 

AIRBAGS section.  B1318 literally means that the battery voltage dropped below 9 volts. Yes a bad battery would cause that but so would a low battery voltage on a good battery. You'll be testing the charging and battery system.   

The "NEEDS ATTENTION" section will be other modules and codes not already addressed. The B1318 is stored in two other modules. It was probably in ENGINE as well but those codes had been cleared. I do know where they came from. This Ford has an intermittent problem with interior lights staying on and running the battery low. B1317 and C1728 are usually a bad shift motor but again, inspect and test. B1323 is probably going to be related to the interior light problem so that circuit needs testing. P1270 is for the speed limiter being reached. The RPMs will surge at that point. This one has a speedometer that shows too fast and the problem causing that is going to be the same causing the code. Inspect and test. B1309, B1341 .... test and inspect. 

There you have it. Not a bad tool. Around $100 at O'Reilly's. Just be aware of what these tools do and don't do and don't get fooled into buying things you don't need. Diagnose or have diagnosed the problems and help me to get the word out that reading codes is not diagnostics. 

Kenny@ggauto.repair