Monday, February 26, 2018

2005 Impala No-crank Condition Check

I have a 2005 Impala LS in the shop for a no-start problem. Diagnostics is the procedure to find the cause of the problem and in this case the first step was to turn the key to start. There was no starter engagement, no starter solenoid "click". It's called no-crank because the engine is not turning, the starter is not working and not cranking the engine.
I saw that the dome light was working, dash lights working, headlights working with key on. I turned the headlight switch on and turned the key to start again, The headlights stayed bright and on. It seemed safe to assume it wasn't a battery voltage problem.
It would be a good time to check that the starter was or wasn't getting crank voltage at the solenoid but checking at the starter wasn't the easiest way to check. I would have to get access to the solenoid from underneath the car.


This car has an easier access point in the under hood power block. I always like to say that in diagnostics you are looking for a test point that will give the most information for the least effort. A crank relay in this case, and the easy access makes this a diagnostic sweet spot. 


Remove the cover and remove the relay and the connectors can be accessed easily with a circuit tester. 




A wiring diagram of the system can look complicated but it really isn't and lets you know what you are testing for electrically. I have seen people start in checking circuits with no clue what they should be looking for. I don't understand the point of that. Anyway.... the only part to be concerned with at this point is what should be at each of those four relay connector points. Power at B8 with key ON or START, power at C8 at all times, ground at C10 in START, power out to starter solenoid on B10 when closed.




Checking for power at C8 and B8 was easy. Just touch the circuit tester probe to the connector pin. Checking for ground at C10 while the key is in START position was easier using a relay tester that allows for easy test lead connections even with the relay installed. 




With the probe lead connected here on C10 I could see the relay was being grounded on START. Connecting to B10 with no relay installed and seeing the green display means the circuit to the solenoid from this connector pin was not open, so no wiring problem between the solenoid and the relay. 



With the testing so far we know that everything going TO the crank relay is as it should be to make the starter engage. We know the wire FROM the relay to the starter solenoid is connected. We need to test with the relay in place that we have power FROM the relay when the key is in START position. Yes there is power FROM the relay. I'm confident enough now to go ahead and order a new starter but there are still a couple things to check. 


The starter needs good power at the main solenoid post and a good ground. 



After verifying ground and power is good at the starter the car gets a replacement. 



Thanks for reading!

Kenneth Hayes
G&G Auto Repair







Wednesday, February 14, 2018

2001 Lexus RX 300 P1354 code stored

This seemed the easiest way to share the info on the Lexus.
We have stored engine code P1354.


That is a problem with the Variable Valve Timing system. Brief explanation of the system and what will cause the code to set:


I don't usually get too deep into these systems because it can get very involved very easily but I have learned some preliminary checks can turn out to be something simple. A lot of times it is just low engine oil but can be related to engine sludge built up over high mileage and this car is over 200,000.
I checked the oil and is 1 quart down and looks like a change is needed as well. The above picture is from the printout of test procedures for the P1354. Step one is verify the cam timing and I didn't do that because the timing cover would have to be removed and the timing marks aligned. Next is an actuator test with the scan tool to see if the vvt solenoids are working. I tested both bank 1 and bank 2 and both are working. I cleared the code from the computer and it hasn't returned. My thinking is that it would probably be worth changing engine oil & filter. It needs that done and it may be the cause of the P1354.



I have Identifix as one repair information source and interesting to me is that P1354 is a very common problem on your car. It is the #2 most searched on Identifix for the car. I include this because it will also list reported "fixes" for the problem and let you understand better about how involved this can get. 




Let me know and I can get the oil change done if you want.