1899 Locomobile

Sonnax Valve Body Testing

Sonnax Information and Equipment. 

2012 Kia Optima 2.4 Hybrid (November 2019 TD)

 Technically Speaking A6MF2H article by Wayne Colonna

Transmission Digest found on page 8

First Anti-lock Brakes?

Chrysler Sure Brake System 

Routine Maintenance Is Not Routine

Cars have become complex marvels of engineering. Why do we still think maintaining the car should be easy and inexpensive? I can't answer that but I can take you on a walk through the reality of today. Lets take a look at a 2012 Cadillac SRX for example. We want to check the power steering fluid level. GM has a procedure.

1. Run the engine to warm the fluid to 170F.

2. Shut off the engine. 

3. Remove the intake manifold cover. 

4. Clean the reservoir and reservoir cap. 

5. Remove the cap. NOTE: Inspect the level at regular intervals. 

6. Inspect the fluid level cap stick. Ensure the fluid is at MAX on the stick. 

ME: Scheduled maintenance suggests checking fluid levels every 7,500 miles.

This warning from GM:

Caution:When adding fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper power steering fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid will cause hose and seal damage and fluid leaks.

 ME: Okay. But just what is the "proper fluid"?

GM: 

Note:If the power steering fluid color is red or pink, use GM DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. If the power steering fluid color is amber or brown, use GM Power Steering Fluid.

ME: If the fluid is red or pink and uses the DEXRON-VI you'll need to look on the label of the product for the verification.  

ME: If the fluid is amber or brown use "GM Power Steering Fluid." The Dexron-VI is a full synthetic ATF. You can TOP OFF ONLY with a regular type power steering fluid if you must, but the "GM Power Steering Fluid"  they are talking about here is a GM product designed for cold climate steering problems per GM bulletins 12-02-32-002A and 12-02-32-002B. Part #s 12345866 (US) or 10953484 (Canada) 

7. Add fluid if necessary.

8. Install the cap.

9. Install the intake manifold cover. 

And VOILA! You have now properly inspected and filled one power steering system in one make of car.................. 

simple. 

Thanks for reading.

Kenny@ggauto.repair

 

M

Carbon Blasting Photo Tech Link

Article starts on Page 23!

CLICK HERE

GDI Engines & Carbon Deposits

Gears Magazine - Unique Powerglide

 

Unique Powerglide Gears Magazine CLICK HERE

1950 Olds 88 by Jay Hirsch

 "Rearview" article by Jay Hirsch. CLICK HERE

ATRA: Pepe Torres

Radiator Genie Cleaning Wands

 

PTEN 2020 Scan Tool Guide

2020 Scan Tool Guide PTEN Scan Tool Spec Guide pdf

Lexus 8-Speed by Mike Brown

GEARS- Lexus 8-Speed June 2020 GEARS article by Mike Brown

Lug Ripper video

Far Future, 1976?

Ford F350 KOEO 334

 I've been running KOEO tests on this 1997 F-350 truck while waiting for the intermittent no-start to rear its ugly head once again. I'm getting nowhere on that problem until it does. Meanwhile, I'm getting 334 and 654 as current codes. Even though this truck is 1997 the self diagnostic system is EEC IV. I had a decent coverage on EEC IV testing HERE. 

The code description for 334 is "EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected".

What to know here is that there is a EGR VALVE POSITION sensor mounted to the top of the EGR valve by 3 small bolts. The sensor voltage to the engine computer is how the computer determines EGR valve position. As the EGR valve moves, it moves a small steel shaft that is part of the position sensor. The movement of that shaft varies the voltage from the sensor. 

The 334 is setting with KEY ON, ENGINE OFF. The engine runs fine at idle. If the EGR valve was not closing the idle should be rough. The sensor and valve appear to be new. My experience tells me that I likely have the wrong voltage from the sensor. A good place to check voltages is at the sensor connector. I should have KOEO a 5 volt reference, a sensor ground and a sensor signal voltage out to the computer. There are two colors of Ford EVP sensors, the white one is supposed to signal 0.5 volts at closed valve position. When I check the signal I have 0.96 volts. The computer is expecting to see 0.5, gets 0.96 and sets a 334 for higher voltage than expected. 

With the correct voltages on the wires to the sensor I loosened the sensor mounting bolts, allowing the sensor shaft to extend slightly and the sensor voltage went to 0.5. A re-test with the correct voltage and the 334 was gone. 

The fix here was to slightly grind the end of the sensor shaft. I removed just a bit at a time because you can always make it shorter, but longer isn't gonna happen. Just removed enough metal to let the shaft at rest be in the position to output 0.5 volts. 

Next up.... that 654 code. 

Thanks!

Kenny@ggauto.repair

Tech Links

Hybrids

Transmission Parts

Atkinson Cycle

Healthway

Replaced worn out throttle body as authorized.
I noticed a spark plug wire had been arcing (spark) against the fuel line. There are a lot of misfires stored in the computer memory. Most are for #3 cylinder which is the one with the spark jumping from the wire. Worn spark plugs cause the spark to go where it shouldn't and I pulled the #3 plug. I have to think that is original plug. I have never seen a spark plug with that much wear that was still running. The plug wire was broken at the plug end and came completely apart when accessing the plug. So... this needs spark plugs, spark plug wires and ignition coil as well. I've taken the pictures relevant. 

Sensor Types: Thermistor

A thermistor is a resistor that changes value according to temperature. They are often used as temperature sensors. We'll use the coolant temperature sensor from a '98 Chevy truck for an example of a thermistor type sensor. This sensor is for the temperature gauge operation. Room temperature is about 80F and we have a chart of rough resistances at various temperatures.

The resistance of the sensor falls within range.

 We should see a change if we heat it up to around 100F.

Or cool it down to around 30F.

So that is how a thermistor type sensor works! 

Thanks for reading

kenny@ggauto.repair

G&G Auto Repair

Aveo

The car has 2 codes stored. P0340 means that the engine computer is not seeing a good signal from the camshaft position sensor. At this time though there is a perfect signal coming from the camshaft position sensor so the problem is intermittent. I inspected the wiring to the sensor and it appears good. A wiring problem on one of the 3 circuits to the sensor, a connector problem, a failing sensor, failing engine computer or a wiring problem to the computer are all possibilities. Best guess and most likely fix is to replace the sensor.
Current signal.

The other code is P0016 which means the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor are out of synch. The timing belt is what keeps the 2 sensors in synchronization so I looked at the timing marks. Align the crank pulley mark with the pin on the timing cover and the camshaft gear marks should be aligned. They are out of synch 1/2 tooth and your timing belt teeth are in very bad condition. The belt will soon lose teeth and jump. This is an interference engine, which means if the belt jumps you will most likely severely damage the engine.

Timing belt replacement is supposed to be 60,000 miles. I can't really tell if that has ever been replaced but it definitely needs it now. So we have the sensor that should be replaced and the belt that needs replaced. Pretty much what they told you at Young's. There are some other things.

Your air intake hose is rotten and falling apart so the air going into the engine is not going through the air filter. Needs a new hose and clean that dirt from the throttle.

Your upper radiator hose is rotten and swollen, easy to replace while doing the other work.

Those things. Timing belt, cam sensor, air intake, radiator hose, clean throttle... if that is all it needs, about $900. I can't tell about pulleys or water pump until the lower cover and timing belt are removed but if need those as well you're going to be up to around $1100. I won't have this done before monday or tuesday, depending on any complications like that.

Also, as if that wasn't enough you should know about a couple other things as well. Your front struts are leaking fluid so need replaced and your a/c compressor is leaking refrigerant. Those are things could be done later for sure but expensive things that it needs as well so you can better get an overview.

Gathering Car Data: License Plate Ho!

There is a back and forth each time I get a phone call requesting a quote. I'm sure it is frustrating on both sides of the line.

"How much to put a belt on my car?" asks the caller, innocently enough.

All the burden now is on me. I have to find out how to best take care of this caller's problem and I'll need a lot more information. I need to know what kind of "car", year, make, model, engine, accessories, systems, etc. So to get started,

"What kind of car is this?" ask I.

I have to tell you, a LOT of people get stuck right there. They may be somewhere in the neighborhood on the year and make, less sure on the model and rarely know the trim package. Engine size is usually not exact but most know 4, 6 or 8. It can be complicated though even if you know it is  5.3. There are more than one version of 5.3 and there is Flex or Gas, etc. Sometimes we are left with the caller digging around for the title to get the 8th digit of the vin, or the full vin. Which brings me to the point of this post.
A license plate is often the easiest way to get the needed car information. Texas tag LRD2276 comes back as vin 2T1BURHEXGC489086. The vin is for a 2016 Toyota Corolla L, 4cyl 1.8 U MFI DOHC. One of the snags searching this car with no vin is that there are two 1.8 vin U engine versions, 2ZR-FAE and 2ZR-FE.  The vin method and we find this is the 2ZR-FE 1.8 engine. There is more. 6sp manual trans. Vehicle produced in Ontario Canada. 13.2 gal fuel tank. 106.3 in wheelbase. 3820 GVWR. A/C, Power Brakes, All Wheel ABS, 4dr Sedan, etc.
With a vin we can even check for recalls at nhtsa.gov. Indeed there actually is one unrepaired recall on this car.

We can also now pull up repair and estimate information that applies specifically to the car in question with no guesswork about whether it is relevant or not.

Now I can get back to the original question and address it more knowledgeably. There is no timing belt as it uses a timing chain. There is only one drive belt. Now I don't have to ask which belt. I do have to ask if there is a problem related to the belt or if the belt is being replaced as regular maintenance. If the belt snapped or fell off there are likely to be other problems that need inspected. There are two available belts, one for Japan built and one for built elsewhere. We know this was built in Canada.
Now we have an accurate estimate. Or, at least as accurate as possible prior to inspecting the car myself.

Thanks for reading!
Kenny@ggauto.repair

Car Checks

I am a firm believer that if you are considering a car purchase you should make sure that particular car is inspected for obvious problems. Researching a make or model to find they are all well made and highly rated doesn't mean the particular one you are looking at isn't completely trashed. That being said, do your research then have the car inspected.
In the shop I like to use the vin for a few things before doing the physical inspection. Now why would I use a vin (vehicle identification number) to look at general information? The vin gives you information about the particular model and engine combination you are looking at. Lets do a walk-thru:

 1FTRW07642KB34176 becomes a 2002 Ford F150 Lariat, 4.6 SuperCrew
It has one unrepaired recall (always check the manufacturer for full recall info) involving fuel tank straps corroding.

A Reliability Report is about these trucks in general. No significant problems. Moderate problems with engine, steering/suspension, brake and accessories.

You know you run searches for information online sometimes? Professional mechanics/technicians do too. Top 5 searches for this model (identifix):
1. P0171
2. Firing Order
3. High Idle
4. P0316
5. Instrument Cluster Programming

(shopkeypro)
1. Firing Order
2. Fuse/Relay/Junction Boxes
3. Fuse Box
4. Fuel Pressure
5. Fuel Pump

After gathering the more general things it's time to look at specifics with a full system scan of this particular truck. A system scan on this Ford is better run on the OTC Encore because I want a print out for the customer. Sometimes a different scan tool is better, sometimes not. The Autel MX808 also does a good job with a print out here.

After the scans and a sort of overview of anything that appears in the scans it is time for the physical inspection. I look for signs of obvious problems, inspect brakes, drivetrain, tires, leaks, belts, hoses, lighting, steering, suspension and eyeball for signs of neglected maintenance, etc. You don't want to buy a car just in time to replace the timing belt or the spark plugs due to mileage so noticing mileage vs maintenance is important.

The test drive comes next, assuming it is safe to drive. Notice the wheel alignment, the steering, the ride, the handling, the performance and the braking. Notice the a/c gets cold, the heater hot and it blows at the correct vents. I let the customer do anything else themselves, like seat belts or radio or interior lights, etc. I just try to look that the vehicle is in good condition to drive and relay the findings to the customer.

Thanks

kenny@ggauto.repair

When Your Car Won't Start (2005 Impala)

There are definite differences to how a car owner sees a no-start versus how a professional mechanic sees it. One thing is that if your car won't start you will try to make it start. There is no good time for your car to not start. You were on your way somewhere and your car was needed to take you there. If trying a dozen times while crossing your fingers might work, you'll try it.
A mechanic, on the other hand, isn't necessarily trying to start your car. He's trying to see why it won't start. There is a difference. There are a lot of reasons for a car to not start and there are a lot of different cars. Lets walk through this particular no-start on a 2005 Impala.
No-start has to get broken down into smaller possibilities. Does the engine crank? Cranking is the starter engaging and spinning the engine. If it cranks well, spins over well then your no-start isn't a battery, alternator or starter issue and you can forget about looking for jumper cables.

I noticed there was no check engine (MIL) light on with the key on. There should be at least a bulb check. I connected a scan tool mainly to see if the engine computer was working. The computer was communicating, several codes were stored but none seemed directly related to the no-start. There were a LOT of misfires in history for #6 cylinder and quite a few for #3 as well. Also, the scan data showed the computer was commanding the MIL on. Bulb out? The interesting thing about those misfires was that #3 and #6 are on the same ignition coil. There are 3 ignition coils bolted to the ignition module and 2 cyls fire from each coil. The misfires as seen here are usually a bad ignition coil due to worn spark plugs. As I said, it doesn't seem directly related to the no-start but could very well have brought about the problem. The car has 306,000 miles. I wonder what the spark plugs look like.

Okay, the car cranks but does not start. The MIL does not come on but the engine computer is alive. When the car was last running it was misfiring on two cylinders and very likely has worn spark plugs and a bad ignition coil. Of course spark plug wires would also be part of that running problem. But the ignition problems on that side would make the car run bad, not keep it from starting.

I could hear the fuel pump run and a gauge showed good fuel pressure to the rail. So primary fuel delivery was good.

Secondary fuel delivery is the injector spray into the cylinder and I have no problem with using a noid light to check the injector signal. If it doesn't flash while cranking I'm getting no injector pulse.

I wanted to test ignition spark at the spark plug end of the plug wires, maybe even remove #3 to see just how badly these were worn. However those plug boots were stuck to the spark plugs. Not a single one was coming off without doing some damage. For the time being I ran a good wire from one coil tower over to a spark tester and no there was no spark while cranking. The items missing from a successful start are secondary ignition and injector pulse signal.

Now when I see no spark and no injector signal I start thinking there is a problem with a crankshaft position signal. Throw in that the plugs, wires and coil have problems and we could even have a bad ignition module as well. I watched the tachometer while cranking and it never moved feeding right into my hypothesis.

I decided to check my signal from the crankshaft position sensor which is behind the front crank pulley. Removing the right front tire will give pretty good access for testing purposes. The wiring was not in good shape near the connector for running the car, but those bare spots were good for connecting test leads. With the key on and turning the crankshaft by hand I should be able to see the crank signals from the sensor but there were no signals. I need voltage to the sensor from the ignition module to make the sensor work but there was no voltage from the module.

I had ignition voltage to the module but nothing from the module to the crank sensor. I had a bad ignition module. Fits right in with the way a secondary will die if you keep driving with an ignition misfire, plugs, wires, coil, module. My car won't start had become I have a bad ignition module that isn't providing voltage to my crankshaft position sensor and that my friend, is something you can work with.

On removing the old module I found there was a crack in the 1-4 coil. Two bad coils in total (of 3). One bad ignition module. Replaced spark plugs and plug wires and repaired wiring at sensor.

It's about patience and a logical plan.

Kenny@ggauto.repair
G&G Auto Repair
Searcy

2014 Nissan Altima S 2.5 Stalls At Idle

One of my good customers called with a description of stalling after a start at idle, battery light and a lot of corrosion at the battery terminals. I thought the stalling problem might be too low an idle rpm and suggested the one foot for braking and one foot for keeping it just off idle to raise the rpms. That worked well enough to get the car to the shop. When I drove the car inside there was no stalling or low rpm. In fact it ran very well but there was a check engine light. A light means a code. A code might be a clue to what had been going on.

A P0101 MAF sensor code was stored and actually is a pretty common fault code on these cars. So common in fact there is a technical service bulletin that suggests an updated PCV valve and a possible ecm flash update, depending on ecm part number.  NHTSA ID: 10119177
TSB ID: NTB16-030a 

That being said, nothing about the known P0101 problem would explain the stalling complaint. Also, the manner of driving with one foot on brake and the other on the accelerator could have set the code. In the few minutes I was with key on checking for codes the car battery voltage had lowered enough that the car powered down to save battery voltage. This brought me to what Danny (customer) had said about the battery condition. I decided to let the P0101 aside for now. I had another idea about the original complaint and its cause. I should explain that a car has a learned memory or an updated one that stores slight adjustments over time to compensate for wear or tear that has taken place since it has been getting older. If you reset the memory it goes back to before the learned behaviors and then has to relearn the adapts. One very common thing to happen over time is a buildup of carbon at the air intake throttle body and throttle plate. The buildup was slow and the idle strategy adapted to it to keep the car idling at a proper rpm. Clearing the adapts on a car that has a dirty throttle (carbon) will cause the car to stall at idle until the relearn adapts OR until you clean the carbon. If you clean the throttle the idle will not have to be relearned but will already match the reset strategy. I suggest cleaning the throttle after a reset. 

The battery here had not been disconnected and the battery had not failed to crank the car. You might wonder then why am I thinking of a problem with throttle carbon buildup and memory resets. A weak battery can drop voltage low enough during a crank to reset the learned adapts. Seriously. I've seen it more on a Dodge than other models so they may be more sensitive to it. It isn't just reset either. Some codes can set on a start that were a result of battery voltage dropping too much during an engine crank. The rule of thumb here, for me anyway, is that if the voltage drops lower than 10 volts during cranking its a problem. 

The plan was now to see if this battery was dropping too low on a crank and if the throttle plate was carbon dirty. Those two things and I'd have evidence this was the problem. 

The battery voltage starts at the left, the drop is down to 7.84 during the crank and then once the engine starts the voltage is output of the alternator. So yes the voltage is going low enough to reset the adapts and I do need a battery. But I need to see carbon buildup on the throttle to explain the stalling. 

Especially sensitive to any carbon is the edge of that throttle plate. Cleaning the throttle and replacing the battery should be the fix. At least it can't hurt. 

Cranking voltage with a new battery.

The P0101. I cleared the code and after 3 trips it had not reappeared even as a pending code. I decided not to pursue further. 

Thanks for reading!

Kenny@ggauto.repair