That hunch turned out to be wrong.
Back to plan A then. I should have enough charge to do the battery testing. I'll start the engine a few times with lights and accessories on to dissipate any surface charge and get a more accurate test. Also, I like to disconnect the battery terminals and test directly from the posts with no possibility of the car wiring affecting the result. Since I'll be disconnecting the battery I like to put a memory saver in place to help the car retain system memory.
Well the current draw is in within specs and the battery tests good (but is still a bit less than a full charge). I'll check the alternator output, put the charger back on to get 100% again and monitor this thing for a day or so. Meantime I can check for related bulletins. Hold on. Found a problem. I put the old battery load tester/meter on for a quick check. Battery still tests good with load test but the alternator is barely registering. With no accessory load it is not a good charge and with accessory load it sometimes drops to no charge at all. Retesting with a more accurate tester and yes the alternator is indeed bad. Belt is still original as well.
Summary: I need an alternator and a drive belt, battery charge and a follow-up system test.
Thanks for reading
Kenneth Hayes
G&G Auto Repair
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